Bespoke

The Shirt Collar Guide You Need!

When it comes to fine tailoring, the collar is a defining element that can elevate your entire look. At Threadsmith Bespoke, we leverage the prestigious Savile Row craftsmanship, using the finest fabrics to create garments that exude comfort, quality, and timeless elegance. In this guide, we explore the various shirt collar styles, their appearance effects, and the ideal occasions to wear them. Whether you’re a professional seeking a sharp business look or a fashion enthusiast aiming to make a statement, our bespoke collars cater to every need.

Guide to types of shirt collars: Business Classic, CutAway Classic, CutAway Extreme, Club, Button-Down, Pin, Mandarin, Wing Tip, Ozwald Boateng
Img : Blue shirt with a collar

1. Business Classic

The straight point collar, also known as the business classic collar, is the epitome of elegance and versatility. This collar features narrow and elongated tips, finishing from 1.5″ to 3.5″ apart, creating a refined and tailored appearance.

Business Classic Collar: Classic straight point collar
Img : Business classic or straight point collar

Appearance Effect:

This style imparts a visually slimmer effect, particularly flattering for individuals with round face shapes. It offers a neat, professional look suitable for various formal settings and complements all face types. With a timeless yet contemporary appeal, it exudes sophistication without needing a tie.

When to Wear:

Ideal for business meetings, formal events, or professional settings where a traditional and sleek appearance is desired. Its remarkable versatility makes it perfect for formal occasions, black-tie events, or even casual outings, transitioning effortlessly between different settings.

Face Type:

Works well for round faces and shorter necks due to its visually slimming effect but is versatile enough for all face types.

2. CutAway Classic:

The cutaway classic or the spread collar or the shark collar has its tips wider than a business classic collar. The threadsmith cutaway classic is quite gentle and tends to be universally flattering. It features a slightly less dramatic spread, offering a balance between traditional and modern styles. 

Cut Away Classic Collar: Balanced collar
Img : CutAway Classic Collar

Appearance Effect:

It maintains a sharp look without being overly bold, making it versatile for various settings. Versatile enough for both tuxedos and suits, you can opt for widespread or narrow spread collars based on preference, or choose semi-spread designs for a balanced look.

When to Wear:

Ideal for formal occasions and professional environments where you want to make a statement without going overboard. It’s the go-to choice for formal events, perfectly complemented by large tie knots.

Face Type:

Flattering for oval and angular face shapes, adding a touch of modernity while maintaining a classic appeal. Barack Obama, Nicolas Sarkozy, and François Hollande frequently choose the cutaway classic collar for their shirts, highlighting its timeless and sophisticated appeal.

Img : President Barack Obama chooses a cutaway collar ; Img source : Popsugar 

3. CutAway Extreme

The cutaway extreme collar, with its wide-set collar points, offers a daring twist on the traditional spread collar design. This bold collar style not only adds a unique flair to formal shirts but also provides ample space for showcasing your favorite neckties or bow ties. Its clean lines and structured silhouette exude confidence and sophistication, making it an excellent choice for any occasion.

Cutaway extreme collar: bold collar with a wide spread
Img : CutAway Extreme Collar

Appearance Effect:

The cutaway extreme collar stands out with its dramatic spread, perfect for accommodating large tie knots and making a strong statement. This collar style is best worn with a tie to complete the look, as the open neckline created by the wide collar points highlights the tie, ensuring a polished finish.

When to Wear:

Ideal for upscale events, fashion-forward gatherings, and occasions where a striking and contemporary appearance is desired. The cutaway extreme collar is also versatile enough for professional settings, including work, formal events, and business meetings, where a sharp and impactful look is essential.

Face Type:

This bold collar style is best suited for individuals with thin and long faces. The wide spread creates a balancing effect, enhancing the overall appearance by widening thin faces. Notable figures like Emmanuel Macron and Samuel Lee Johnson are often seen sporting the cutaway extreme collar, highlighting its stylish and sophisticated appeal.

Img : Emmanuel Macron, ex – prime minister of France, sporting a cutaway extreme collar ;   Img source : GQ Magazine

4. Club Collar

The club collar brings a touch of vintage charm from the 19th century, popularized by The Eton School in England. Its rounded points, resembling flower petals, and generous space between the collar lapels add sophistication to any ensemble. For a collar style that exudes timeless class and versatility, the club collar is an excellent choice.

Club Collar: Vintage-inspired collar with rounded points.
Img : Club collar with rounded collar tips

Appearance Effect:

The club collar adds a nostalgic and sophisticated touch to tailored outfits. Its vintage appeal makes it a standout piece for those seeking a distinctive look.

When to Wear:

Ideal for those who appreciate vintage-inspired styles or want to add old-world charm to their wardrobe. Perfect for formal events or when aiming for a refined yet unique appearance. The club collar can be worn with or without a neckpiece, adapting effortlessly to both formal and casual looks. For a polished finish, pair it with skinny knots when wearing a tie to enhance its refined aesthetic.

Face Type:

This collar complements oval and angular face shapes, adding a unique contrast to sharp features. Its rounded shape softens facial lines, making it a flattering choice. Notable figures like David Beckham and Thomas Shelby from Peaky Blinders are often seen sporting the club collar, highlighting its vintage and sophisticated appeal.

Img : David Beckham wearing club collar ; Img sources : i.pinimg

5. Button-Down Collar

The button-down collar was designed for polo players in the 19th century. In those days, polo players had to wear a shirt, the tips of the collar constantly hit the players’ faces, so they thought about attaching them to the shirt by buttons. Characterised by buttons that secure the collar points, it has a distinctively relaxed yet classic appeal.

Button-Down Collar: Casual yet classic collar with buttoned points.
Img : Button-down collar

Appearance Effect:

The club collar adds a nostalgic and sophisticated touch to tailored outfits. Its vintage appeal makes it a standout piece for those seeking a distinctive look.

When to Wear:

Ideal for those who appreciate vintage-inspired styles or want to add old-world charm to their wardrobe. Perfect for formal events or when aiming for a refined yet unique appearance. The club collar can be worn with or without a neckpiece, adapting effortlessly to both formal and casual looks. For a polished finish, pair it with skinny knots when wearing a tie to enhance its refined aesthetic.

Face Type:

This collar complements oval and angular face shapes, adding a unique contrast to sharp features. Its rounded shape softens facial lines, making it a flattering choice. Notable figures like David Beckham and Thomas Shelby from Peaky Blinders are often seen sporting the club collar, highlighting its vintage and sophisticated appeal.

Img : Ty Burell from Modern Family is spotted wearing a button-down shirt here ; Img source : today.com

6.Pin-Collar:

The Pin Collar stands out with its small button between the collar points, adding a refined and distinctive touch to the neckline. It features a pin that holds the collar points together, ensuring the tie stays perfectly in place. Unlike some other collar designs, the pin collar should always be worn with a tie, making it less flexible but undeniably stylish.

Pin Collar: Refined collar with a distinctive pin between points
Img : Pin collar

Appearance Effect:

The Pin Collar elevates the tie knot, making it more pronounced and adding a touch of sophistication to the overall look. This addition creates a classy and flattering formal look.

When to Wear:

Ideal for formal settings where attention to detail is key, such as business meetings, formal dinners, or events that demand a polished and distinguished appearance. Pair pin collar shirts with tailored suits or jackets for the best effect at formal events.

Face Type: 

Best suited for angular and longer face shapes, adding depth and a sophisticated edge. James Bond, Peaky Blinders, and Cristiano Ronaldo are known for wearing pin collars.

Img : James Bond wears a pin collar. ; Img source : Iconic

7. Mandarin Collar:        

The Mandarin Collar, also known as the Mao Collar, is a sleek and minimalistic shirt collar style characterised by its lack of collar leaves. This design originated from Mao Zedong, who wore it when he proclaimed the People’s Republic of China. Unlike the band collar, the Mandarin Collar features a U-neck without collar points and no button for closure.

Mandarin Collar: Clean, minimalistic collar with no leaves
Img : Mandarin  collar

Appearance Effect:

The Mandarin Collar offers a clean, modern look that can range from casual to semi-formal. It’s typically worn without a tie, making it perfect for a relaxed yet polished appearance.

When to Wear:

Ideal for casual outings, relaxed settings, or semi-formal environments, the Mandarin Collar provides a sleek and contemporary style. It pairs well with jeans or chic chinos for an elegant yet casual look.

Face Type:

Suitable for all face shapes, especially enhancing a clean and modern appearance for oval faces.

8. Wing Tip: 

The Wing Tip Collar is synonymous with formal elegance, often seen in the most sophisticated and high-level formal settings. This iconic collar is designed to be worn with a bow tie and tuxedo, epitomising timeless charm and refined style.

Wing Collar: Formal collar with wing-like points for tuxedos
Img : Wing Tip collar

Appearance Effect:

The fold-out collar points resemble wings, adding a classic and traditional touch to formal attire. The Wing Tip Collar is a symbol of sophistication and formal protocol, perfect for making a strong impression at any formal event.

When to Wear:

Ideal for the most formal occasions such as black-tie events, galas, or weddings where a tuxedo is required. The Wing Tip Collar is a must-have for special occasions, enhancing the overall look when paired with a bow tie. Its unique shape stands tall with the collar tips elegantly turned down in the front, adding an extra touch of elegance to your attire.

Face Type:  

Complements all face shapes, adding a touch of formal sophistication.  Notable figures like Leonardo DiCaprio, John F. Kennedy, and Tom Selleck often choose to wear Wing Tip Collars, making them a preferred choice for those aiming for a polished and elegant look.

Img : Tom Selleck, a Hollywood actor, chooses to wear a wing tip collar ; Img source : Mashable

9. Ozwald Boateng:

The Ozwald Boateng Collar is a distinctive and contemporary collar style known for its chiseled, point-free design. Created by the renowned British fashion designer Ozwald Boateng, this collar offers a blend of traditional elegance and modern sophistication. With its unique shape, this collar stands out for its bold, refined appearance that adds a touch of avant-garde to any formal shirt.

Ozwald Boateng Collar: Innovative collar design featuring a unique pattern
Img : Oswald Boateng collar

Appearance Effect:

The Ozwald Boateng Collar is characterized by its chiseled, point-free design, creating a sleek and stylish look. This modern collar is very noticeable and gives an edge over regular collars, making it a standout choice for those looking to make a statement.

When to Wear:

Ideal for formal events, business meetings, and any occasion requiring a polished and sophisticated look. The Ozwald Boateng Collar pairs exceptionally well with tailored suits, enhancing the overall elegance and sharpness of your outfit.

Face Type:

Best suited for individuals with oval face shapes, as the unique collar design complements and enhances their natural features. Ozwald Boateng himself, along with other fashion-forward individuals, often showcases this collar style, making it a popular choice for those seeking a modern and sophisticated edge in their formal wear. Incorporating an Ozwald Boateng Collar into your wardrobe is an excellent way to elevate your formal shirts with a touch of contemporary elegance and timeless style.

Img : Ozwald Boateng collar worn by the designer himself at the British fashion awards ; Img source : WWD

At Threadsmith Bespoke, we understand the importance of finding the perfect collar to complement your style and occasion. By offering a wide range of collar options, we ensure that every garment we craft is tailored to your exact specifications, reflecting the highest standards of Savile Row craftsmanship. Our dedication to quality, comfort, and exceptional tailoring makes Threadsmith the ultimate destination for bespoke attire.

Related Posts